Is That a Bobber?

The consummate gear-toting fly angler calls it a "strike indicator." He'll wince if you call it a "bobber." Strike indicators are small floats that can be pegged, stuck, or looped on the fly leader at a predetermined distance above the fly. The purpose of a strike indicator is to control the depth of a drifting fly and provide a visual signal to the angler when a fish grabs the fly. Kind of sounds like a bobber, doesn't it? The biggest difference between a strike indicator and a bobber is how/where they are fished. Bobbers just sort of sit there waiting for a fish to pass by and grab the bait- it's a waiting game. Indicators however, drift on the shoulders of moving water and deliver a fly pattern to a waiting predator. Strike indicators move, bobbers are static.

Although indicator fishing has traditionally been associated with streams and rivers, it has a place in saltwater fly fishing. After all, tidal creeks, channels, and surf guts are loaded with currents. Predators position themselves along those currents and ambush drifting prey, so why not tie on a strike indicator and deliver it to them? Let's take a closer look at how to select, rig, and fish an indicator in salt water.

Indicator Basics

At the very least, a strike indicator should accomplish 3 things. First, it must be large enough to buoy your fly. Second, its profile and color should remain visible through a wide range of water and weather conditions. Third, the shape and weight of an indicator should not impair your cast or foul your leader. So what type of indicator works best? Forget about the scant puffs of floating fiber and mini pinch-on indicators the freshwater guys use. Except for the very lightest saltwater flies in the very calmest conditions, these rigs aren't going to get you very far. You need an indicator that will buoy a heavy fly (like a Clouser) and remain visible in a stiff chop or piercing glare. Remember that tiny bobber you started perch fishing with years ago? That's close to what you're looking for.

Most of the indicators I prefer are the peg type. They're basically small foam balls or cylinders with a single hole drilled through the center. The fly leader is threaded through the hole and secured with a small plastic peg or rubber band. A bright orange round indicator with a diameter of approx. " is a versatile choice. It's small enough to cast in the wind and large enough to carry a large fly. Small cigar-shaped indicators also work well. Cigar shaped indicators are easier to cast than the round ones, but are slightly more difficult to see in choppy water.

Sierra Pacific Products (www.sierrapac.com) manufactures several styles of strike indicators that will work for saltwater fishing. Look either at their micro-ball indicators, which secure with an internal rubber band, or the toothpick peg-type indicators. If you are into making your own stuff, get some very small clip-on foam bobbers from a company like Comal Tackle or from the bins in a tackle store, snip off the plastic/wire clips and replace them with small plastic or rubber pegs. They are simple and cost pennies apiece.

Rigging Up

The first thing you should remember when rigging up an indicator is that a fly will trail below and behind it during a drift. How far behind depends on the current speed, drag on the fly, and drag on the leader. So, if you are fishing a tidal creek 3 feet deep, you will need to set the indicator 4 or more feet above the fly. Through trial and error you can deduce how far above the fly you should pin the indicator to achieve the correct depth.

You'll also quickly learn what size/shape of indicator is adequate for your tackle, casting ability, and the water conditions. Small indicators (1/2 inch or smaller) are good choices for light flies and relatively calm water. They are also reasonably easy to cast. Medium indicators (3/4 inch) offer a good mix of floatation, visibility, and castability. Large indicators (1 inch) can buoy huge flies and you can see them in the worst conditions, but they can be tough to cast in the wind. The shape of the indicator is also important. A cigar shaped indicator, although generally harder to see, slides through wind and waves better than a round one. It's a good choice for the surf, where wind and crashing waves present a problem.

Your selection of flies for indicator fishing need not be complex. There is no "perfect" pattern to couple with a strike indicator. Like any other style of angling, it is a matter of finding a size, color, and action that will trigger a strike. In a tidal creek, a small shrimp pattern may be the ticket. When you move out to the edge of a secondary channel, baitfish might be on the menu so a craft fur minnow is a better selection. In the surf, where currents are strong, heavily weighted patterns like Clousers work well.

Strategy

Remember- indicators are meant for moving water. A good place to start is at the mouth of a secondary channel. Secondary channels drain water from flats or tidal lakes into larger deeper channels and cuts. Begin by positioning yourself at the throat of the secondary channel as the tide begins to fall. Cast across the secondary channel in the upstream direction. As the indicator begins to drift back toward you along the opposite side of the channel, mend your line to remove slack. Do your best to keep the slack out of the line but let the indicator drift freely and try not to drag it across the channel.

As the indicator swings by, feed out line by wiggling or lightly flicking your lowered rod tip. Eventually, the indicator will pass out the mouth of the secondary channel where the bottom drops and many of the predators hang. When your rig exits the mouth, you can continue the drift by feeding out more line or you can retrieve the indicator slightly and cover that prime section of water again.

It is imperative you watch the indicator closely throughout the drift for signs of a strike. Sometimes the indicator will disappear like a popping cork, other times the take may be subtle and the indicator will appear to momentarily drag or stall. If you are slow on the hookset you will miss the fish, or worse, allow him to deeply inhale the fly. Staying focused on the indicator is critical no matter what type of water you are fishing.

The principles of drifting flies under strike indicators can apply to any spot with current. Perhaps it is a windblown point, a tidal creek, or a gut in the surf.

All these areas hold promise. Study the way the currents move and practice the techniques that can put your indicator (and your fly) in the strike zone. It will add versatility to your game and help you become better angler.